But they will be followed by good things, I promise.
Adam and I had a Saturday off together, which hasn't happened without us requesting it in... forever, probably. We hastily started planning our first winter hike of the season. Last year was the first year we really got into winter camping and hiking together, and we were itching to get out again. We finally settled on the Hancocks, two peaks off the hairpin turn on the Kancamagus. Our plan was to hike in at least 1.8 miles to the first major intersection, maybe further if we felt up to it, set up the hammock, and finish the remainder in the morning. Alright! Great plan!
Like clockwork, the day before our trip I started suffering from menstrual woes. I say "like clockwork" because somehow before every major winter hike (which is a big physical undertaking, mind you) I have been stricken with the same affliction. It's Satan's way of reminding me that he is real. Not only does it present some -ahem- unique challenges in nature's non-bathroom (especially when it's below freezing), but it makes one feel generally shitty. It's not good to feel generally shitty when you're hauling 30-40lbs of gear on your back, hiking multiple miles, layered in heavy gear... well, you get this gist.
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| "Do I HAVE to get out?" |
The night went really well. We got up north at a reasonable hour and even had enough time to enjoy a leisurely dinner at Subway. The hike in by headlamp was a pleasant 1.8 miles, so pleasant that we continued on 1/4 mile before setting up camp. Anxiety started to creep up on me while we settled into the hammock. It was dark, very dark. We were in a place that is notorious for not having cell service. We were the only car in the parking lot, no one else was on this mountain. I didn't feel great, what if I was getting sick? And that noise... was that the hammock? Was that snow falling off of the tarp? Or was it a bear coming to maul us? Oh, how the mind wanders.
My anxieties didn't last long. Eventually they were overtaken by the childlike giddiness that comes with camping out, and by the peaceful quiet of a snow-covered forest. We slept for a comfortable 7ish hours and got a later start than planned. We had 7.75 miles to hike, for which we budgeted 4 hours (3.5 if we were booking it). All told, it would take us 6.5 hours.
The first chunk was relatively easy except that we were breaking trail. It has snowed ~3 inches overnight, so Adam and I took turns making steps through the fresh powder. It doesn't sound hard (3 inches of snow, so what?) but it feels like walking in sand. A few river crossings shook things up a bit, but all was quiet until we got the junction for the loop.
And then it all fell apart.
The first 3.6 miles to the junction are, like I said, easy-peasy. We studied our topo map and saw that the ascent up North Hancock and descent of South Hancock would be very steep, but it didn't seem so bad since the rest of the trail was almost flat. Oh, how wrong I was. First, a group of six hikers caught up to us not 2 minutes past the junction. It's always a weird sensation to feel very alone on a mountain and then suddenly - HELLO! - there's a big group of people. And they were a ... how do I say this... boisterous group that had an affinity to blasting dubstep from speakers in their pack.
Almost immediately we were on the steep slope, which happened to last the entire .7 miles. It was probably one of the hardest .7 miles I've ever hiked, at least mentally. The first winter hike of the season is always a kick in the ass, but this felt different. A bout of rain had turned to heavy, wet snow. There's something soul-sucking about hiking in cold slush, even when the proper gear prevents it from getting to your skin. It is also energy-sucking; we were burning around 500 calories per hour, and at that rate it's nearly impossible to refuel as quickly as you lose it. I would equate it to trying to eat a Big Mac while running on a treadmill.
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| Looking back on our tracks |
Climbing on unbroken trail through several inches of snow is hard enough, add an unreasonably steep slope and it's that much harder. I felt myself slowing down. I tried to will myself to not stop, but my legs had other ideas and would simply stop moving every hundred feet or so. I grew more and more frustrated that I was slowing us down so much (to which Adam will never agree), and it was worsened by the fact that I couldn't seem to push myself to just go. When I'm having a hard time on trail I set small goals, just keep going until the next intersection, but that method only disheartened me. I read a story many years ago that hell was eternally carrying rocks up a hill to stack into a pyramid (or something like that), only to come back down and realize the number of rocks to carry up never decreased. Sometimes that's what hiking in the White Mountains feels like. It is relentless. Every time we rounded a corner it was more of the same. I wanted so desperately for there to be a change, for that turn to be the one that landed us at the top, and it wasn't. So, I would mentally reset and take another step, only for that step to slide backwards down the slope in the deep powdered snow. I didn't want to continue, I didn't want to turn around, I simply wanted to stop doing it.
Then my uterus turned on me and I really fell apart. Adam tried to motivate me by saying the trees were getting thinner, we must be near the top, and I didn't even care. I wasn't excited. I was frustrated and defeated, especially knowing that this was summit # 1 out of 2 with a fairly decent stretch back to the car. I had to remember that I CHOSE to do this, that this was my own fault and I should stop whining, and then I finally lost it. Only about 1/10 of a mile from the wooded, viewless summit, I stopped and let Adam get out of sight, heaved forward onto my trekking poles, and let out a single tear of frustration and pain.
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| North Hancock Summit |
You would probably never know by looking at that photo that I was bent at the waist fighting back tears not three minutes before (though the convenient smudge of snow over my face probably helps). I was upset and embarrassed, and I desperately wanted to get away from the group that was still blasting electronic music from their backpack and yelling obscenities at each other. I wanted to flash my Leave No Trace Trainer badge (that doesn't exist, but it would be cool) and be like PRINCIPLE 7: BE CONSIDERATE TO OTHER VISITORS; "LET NATURE'S SOUNDS PREVAIL". I do not haul my ass up mountains in those conditions to listen to music I hate, or any music at all, really.
The 1.4 mile link to the south summit was considerably easier, and I felt a weight lift knowing that the most physically challenging part was over. Even still, every small rise in elevation felt like a battle, especially since we were trudging through even deeper snow. We were breaking trail again, and even with a full, normal step my foot didn't come out from under the snow. That 1.4 miles was the only time I wish we had snowshoes on, but overall I was thankful to not have brought the extra weight.
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| South Summit |
We had a pretty quiet hike after getting off the steep slope (except when we were leapfrogging the loud group), and it wasn't a peaceful quiet, it was the "Molly is upset" quiet. You see, this isn't the first time I've gotten upset during one of our outings, and Adam knows me well enough to know when those times are. It's usually a much shorter amount of time than was on this hike, and I'm usually a chatty-Cathy on the way up and down. I was not a chatty-Catchy. I was a silent-Sally. I desperately wanted the day to end. I knew that we were going to be long past our planned 3.5-4 hours, and I couldn't help feeling responsible. The going was easier, but I was still feeling like a sack of crap. I tried my hardest to set small goals and feel accomplished, like "only .5 miles to the next intersection", but I couldn't help but feel discouraged by how long we still had to go.
And then Adam fell in a river, and I stopped complaining.

Did I get your attention again? Oh, good. Yeah, so Adam fell in a river. There are three big river crossing and two minor ones. In the morning the three perilous ones weren't so bad. The ice was thin in some spots, but a few thwacks with a trekking pole would tell if you the ice would hold. In the afternoon, however, the temps had risen a little and the group of 6 had hit the crossings just before us. Some of the water was low enough to not go over your boot if you went in, but this one was pretty deep. It was obvious that several members of the group ahead of us had definitely gone in (not waist deep or anything, but enough to get a wet foot). I investigated to the right of their path but it didn't seem promising. I told Adam to check out a spot to the left that looked entirely frozen over. It required a minor bushwhack over a burm and through some undergrowth, nothing too dicey. He went over the burm and stepped down onto flatter ground, which was not flat ground but a thin layer of ice over some swampy inlet to the river. His lower half disappeared and then reappeared as a he dispersed his weight with his trekking poles. I heard another crack and saw him scramble to actual flat ground. It was a tense moment of silence before I said, "...Soooooo.. guess you're going to try from over there then?" It was the first time I laughed in several hours. Luckily I made it across without any mishaps.
It wasn't until the last stretch, 1.8 miles from the final junction to the car, that I finally settled into the day. The constant aches and pains were just normal, not something to pay attention to. I let my mind float and my body took over. Of course, I finally found my mental balance at the very end. I came to terms with the fact that not every trip will be good, and that's fine. I've had shitty days on trail, but this one felt compounded by feeling crappy, being weighed down by heavy wet snow, and by being mentally exhausted. I felt proud of myself for not turning around, for struggling through it. I was happy to make peace with the day, but I was even happier to see the little piece of civilization.
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| Can you spot the sign? |
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| So life giving. |
The car was a welcome sight, especially since we had decided to stop at our usual place: The Common Man. It's the one great restaurant in the area that we know Adam can eat, and it's become sort of a tradition for us. We stripped off our wet outer layers and took refuge by the roaring fire in the lounge. Our muscles already ached, and we happily relaxed in a semi-disoriented state of tiredness after the long day. A family joined our little pod of couches and lounge chairs, we got to chatting with them for maybe fifteen minutes, tops, as they waited for their table to open. When we asked for our check the waiter informed us that those folks had paid for our meal because they enjoyed talking to us. I don't think that has ever happened to me, and it really took me by surprised. It was a simple, kind gesture that really resonated with us.
So, I had a bad day hiking I guess, but in the end it was great. I walked (hobbled) out feeling beat but happy that we had done what we came to do.